Specialties: We are brand new business in this neighborhood. “They think cake, actually,” Ono says of the typical reaction he’s gotten from beta tasters so far — though the sandwiches are quite a bit less sweet than most cakes. Mission bakery Craftsman & Wolves started making an artisanal version with a shiny deep amber crust in 2014. On the following Sunday, December 13, Sundo and Dela Curo will pop up again, this time at the Berkeley Bowl West Cafe. But Ono says he wanted to start with the fruit sandwiches in part because they’re not very well known in the U.S., despite being a Japanese convenience store staple. Look at U-Haul traffic, California’s EDD freezes many people’s unemployment benefits to combat fraud, Why CO2 monitors and indoor ventilation may be a key to curb COVID spread, S.F. If your bread maker doesn't have an automatic dispenser, add yeast 3 minutes after mixing starts. The demand has been so high that the bakery had to buy more loaf pans earlier this year. Both the curry and the sandwiches will also be available in January at the Berkeley Bowl West Cafe, where B-Dama has been operating for the past several months. B-Dama’s chef wants customers to savor the silky texture of Japan’s most popular milk bread. Japanese milk bread, aka Hokkaido milk bread (in Japanese it’s called shokupan 食パン), is the softest and fluffiest bread that I have ever made. Just after World War II, it was a symbol of the American Occupation and a poor substitute for white rice. It can even be pulled apart into flaky layers. Japanese milk bread satisfied in a similar way, and several recipe reformulations later, she brought it to Breadbelly as the star of the bakery’s best-selling item: toast slathered with kaya, the Singaporean coconut jam. 746 Valencia St., San Francisco. About Japanese Milk Bread Dinner Rolls: Oh, and don’t even think about using anything but butter on these, unless, perhaps, you’d like a bit of jam! It starts with tangzhong, a Chinese roux-like paste, that gives the dough strength and an unusually long shelf life. Milk bead hugs a wobbly spinach frittata for the breakfast sandwich ($10), and the shiny loaves ($8.50) are popular on their own. Yui and Campecino-Wong agree — they also point to more Asian pastry chefs re-creating old favorites like they’ve done at their bakeries. Add the yeast, some of the sugar and warm … In addition to offering fresh loaves, Stonemill serves slices of shokupan toast with matcha butter and red bean jam as well as sandos on milk bread. When Stonemill Matcha opened, she decided milk bread would be a central part of the menu. Take a loaf ($6) home or enjoy shokupan toast ($6), a katsu sando ($16) or Japanese egg salad sandwich ($12) at the cafe. Chefs in San Francisco, sourdough’s spiritual home, have particularly taken to shokupan for dishes that have a … It’s been a staple at Craftsman, which might sell 50 loaves on its busiest day, according to Figueiredo. We have many optionals of Japanese Sandwiches. “Milk bread has a very Asian taste.”. Starting sometime in mid- to late-January, that will translate into a new standalone restaurant: Dela Curo and Sundo will take over B-Dama, Ono’s Old Oakland restaurant, which has been closed since the start of the pandemic. No spreads, margarine or oleos on these, please! Japanese milk bread — also called shokupan — is not just ordinary white bread. Cover with plastic film, pressing against the surface of the milk-flour mixture to ensure it doesn’t form a skin. Milk bread shows up in less expected places as well: whipped with uni for a luxurious dip at Prairie; hugging a Japanese-inspired hot dog at Stuart Brioza and Nicole Krasinski’s restaurant, the Progress; toasted under beets and ricotta at Sunday at the Museum in the Asian Art Museum; and as a bun injected with pandan-coconut pastry cream at Breadbelly in the Richmond District. Stays fresh for days longer than regular bread. It’s about nostalgia. Dry yeast – 1 tablespoon The steps are: Put water and small amount of flour in a small pan. The Chronicle’s food and culture podcast, hosted by Soleil Ho and Justin Phillips. milk, 22g. Legend has it that milk bread may have been actually invented by British baker Robert Clarke, who opened Yokohama Bakery in Japan back in 1862. It's the perfect everyday loaf, from sandwiches to toast, and is one you need to try! Kneaded with milk, butter and eggs, the resulting loaf manages to taste delicate and rich at the same time, with a soft, fluffy texture and subtle sweetness. The idea, Ono says, is for his two new concepts — Japanese black curry and Japanese sandwiches — to exist side by side, the same way they would at a depachika, or basement-level food hall that you can find in any big department store in Japan. Loafs of Milk bread photographed at Breadbelly on Monday, Nov. 4, 2019 in San Francisco, California. For Sunday’s pop-up at Masabaga, the fruit sandwiches will priced at $5 for two triangular wedges — half of a full sandwich, essentially. Milk bread starts with a Tangzhong, which is a warm flour, milk and water paste. Her writing has been recognized by the California Newspaper Publishers Association and Association of Alternative Newsmedia. Previously, she served as a reporter for Eater SF, managing editor at the East Bay Express, and arts & culture editor at the Sacramento News & Review. For Japanese pastry chefs like Yui, milk bread was all she knew growing up. #bread … Japanese milk bread is also known as Hokkaido milk bread. Japanese milk bread is probably the lightest, fluffiest, most tender bread you'll come across. It starts with tangzhong, a Chinese roux-like paste, that gives the dough strength and an unusually long shelf life. Email: janelle.bitker@sfchronicle.com Twitter: @janellebitker. For the Japanese, bread was, and still is, loaded with historical significance. Halfway between a dessert and a more conventional sandwich, the fruit sandwiches may be a bit difficult for some American customers to pin down at first. 415-349-0969 or www.breadbellysf.com. Follow this step-by-step tutorial to make the fluffiest, yummiest bread ever! (Bread ‘n Chu, in SF’s Richmond District, is one of the only other local spots that routinely offers a version.). “It’s nice to have another option in a repertoire so you’re not stuck with just French or European-style doughs.”. butter, 10g, softened. Hokkaido is a prefecture in Japan famous for their rich and creamy milk. My bread maker takes 45 minutes. Add the yeast mixture, 1/3 cup heavy cream, and 1 of the large eggs to the cooled … milk, 74g. egg whites, 38g. restaurant, S.F. What is shokupan or Japanese milk bread? heavy cream, 63g “I feel a little guilty eating it sometimes. Janelle Bitker joined The San Francisco Chronicle in 2019. Classic Japanese Milk Bread recipe made with cream, milk, and an extra special something that makes it super soft, fluffy, and moist. … Chinatown’s 100-year-old Far East Cafe postpones closure, How big was San Francisco’s pandemic exodus? Despite its popularity overseas, the Pasco bread is hard to come by here in the U.S., apart from the couple of Japanese supermarkets in New York that carry it. That’s the inspiration behind Chikara Ono’s (B-Dama, Delage) newest East Bay enterprise, Sundo, which will specialize in Japanese convenience store–style sandwiches — and, especially, in fruit sandwiches: two thick slices of airy-light Japanese milk bread filled with whipped cream and fresh fruit, cut just so to reveal the pleasingly symmetrical cross section of the strawberries and other fruits. This bread is so delicious and stays soft for a few days, just wrap it up and leave at room temperature. Pastry chef Sara Figueiredo of Craftsman & Wolves said San Francisco’s high Asian population means a lot of interest in Asian baked goods like milk bread. The Japanese have a strange fascination with Western food, ... the chef at Stonemill Matcha in San Francisco. The pop-up will also feature the black curry from Ono’s forthcoming Japanese curry restaurant, Dela Curo. In the land of sourdough, heavy loaves of dense Tartine Bakery bread and naturally fermented everything, milk bread might seem like a surprising choice for San Francisco chefs. The fruit sandwiches are also mild-flavored enough to allow customers to really taste the bread, Ono says. milk powder, 15g. Japanese Milk Bread (Hokkaido Bread or Shokupan). The bread is incredibly soft, … It’s sturdy enough to stand up to a burger but also light enough to allow accompanying ingredients to shine. “I think white bread is kind of taboo in the Bay Area food scene,” said Anthony Strong, chef-owner of Prairie in the Mission. ... and plans to start making his own milk bread … Japanese Milk Bread Dinner Rolls deserve butter and nothing less. “We didn’t eat crusty bread back home,” she said. newsletter, Ono’s forthcoming Japanese curry restaurant, Dela Curo, B-Dama’s Chef Wants East Bay Diners to Know the Pleasures of Japanese Black Curry, Pandemic Binge Drinking Is a Myth, Wine Analyst Says, Vandals Deface SF’s Iconic Cliff House Restaurant, Tripleta Founders Say Chef Aaron London Has Kicked Them Out of Their Own Pop-Up. Japanese Condensed Milk Bread: The Process Start off by proofing the yeast in a large mixing bowl. But that nostalgia also hits chefs like Strong, who don’t have an Asian background. What is Japanese milk bread? The only thing might be a … Place the saucepan over low heat and cook the mixture, whisking constantly, until thick and the … 1. Cook, stirring constantly, over medium heat until mixture thickens into the consistency of mashed potatoes, about 2 minutes. San Francisco chefs find nostalgia in Japanese milk bread, Photo: Stephen Lam / Special to The Chronicle. Egg salad is ready for its close-up. As the food enterprise reporter, she covers restaurant news as well as Bay Area culture at large through a food lens. Hokkaido bread is famous for light, fluffy, soft, tender and little sweetened bread. She grew up in a Filipino household eating the sweet, soft rolls known as pandesal. Since then, milk bread has gradually taken hold of San Francisco. To make the starter, whisk the bread flour, milk, and water together in a medium saucepan until smooth. bread flour, 41g. The sandwiches will make their debut at a pop-up this Sunday, December 6, from noon until whenever they sell out, at Masabaga in downtown Oakland. “Imagine brioche and Texas toast combined together,” said Mikiko Yui, pastry chef at Stonemill Matcha in the Mission District, by email from Japan. This recipe walks you through every step so you can enjoy this light white bread at home. 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Eventually, Sundo will carry a full slate of savory milk bread sandwiches, including an egg salad sandwich and a chicken katsu sandwich. Mix until smooth and no lumps remain. These Japanese milk bread also referred to as Hokkaido milk bread is pillowy soft, light and airy. Gallo finalizes $810 million purchase from Constellation, one of the biggest... Concord’s Mel’s Diner closes, and other restaurant closures, In the Bay Area, casinos still offer on-site dining as lockdown continues. Scaling all the ingredients. Japanese Milk Bread. Before opening Breadbelly, Campecino-Wong was searching for an Asian bread to make for herself. 1408 Clement St., San Francisco. “A lot of people just connect to having something like milk bread that brings back childhood memories,” she said. Select "pizza dough" to make the dough only. “Shokupan is like exactly what I wished American white bread could be.”, Janelle Bitker is a San Francisco Chronicle staff writer. Luke Tsai Eventually, Sundo will carry a full slate of savory milk bread sandwiches, including an egg salad sandwich and a chicken katsu sandwich. Baker Tina Nguyen places a rolled milk bread dough onto a baking sheet at Breadbelly on Monday, Nov. 4, 2019 in San Francisco, California. And that’s why the homemade dog bun is worth your effort and time. 415-796-3876 or www.stonemillmatcha.com. It has the soft white bread texture you know and love! Choose from kaya toast ($7), a kaya bun ($5), a char siu sandwich ($16) or kare-pan ($7), a bun stuffed with chicken curry and breaded with panko. Add milk, salt, sugar, soft butter, condensed milk, and flour to the bread maker and yeat to the automatic dispenser. Japanese milk bread is deliciously soft yet it has a chewy mochi like texture. Combine flour with water and milk and whisk together in a saucepan and whisk together. Heat over … Some people call it snow bread because the flour is dusting on top of the dough and it looks like snow on the bread. by Caleb Pershan Aug 20, ... crustless milk bread sandwiches at 1900 Clement for a … Loaves ($8) are baked daily. Japanese milk bread — also called shokupan — is not just ordinary white bread. Also available at CAW Den in the Bayview. 561 Valencia St., San Francisco. But the idea, again, is for customers to relish the texture and flavor of the bread itself. Shipped frozen, the choujuku pan is made with a patented aging process that gives it a texture that’s even silkier and fluffier than other Japanese milk breads (which are already known for their extreme fluffiness.) 415-913-7713 or www.craftsman-wolves.com. Japanese Milk Bread {Easy White Bread} Soft, pillowy Japanese Milk Bread is perfect for slicing and toasting or serving as sandwiches. Make the starter: In a small heavy pot, whisk flour, milk and 1/2 cup water (120 milliliters) together … What's the origin story of Hokkaido milk bread? Shokupan is a traditional milk bread in Japan and literally means “food bread” or “eating bread.”While the popularity of bread in Japan has had a complicated and long history, milk bread or fluffy white bread in the style of Pullman loaves weren’t really popularized or even introduced until American soldiers came to Japan in the 20 th century. This isn’t some sort of heirloom flour that was milled down the street.”. For now, Ono is mostly using fresh strawberries for the sandwiches, but he also plans to make versions with mangos, kiwis, and more seasonal fruits. At … It has such a tender crumb, almost cloud like! And yes, I have managed to make it vegan! One of the great joys of Japan’s convenience store culture — among the onigiri, the canned coffee, and the dozens of varieties of instant noodles — is the fact that you can walk into any random 7-Eleven and find a refrigerated case full of tasty, convenient grab-and-go sandwiches that’ll put many American delis to shame. Photo: Stephen Lam, Special to The Chronicle. Mix and let fermentation at room temp (73F) for 12 hours. Hokkaido Milk Bread, Japanese Milky Loaf, Asian Milk Bread, Shokupan, and Pai Bao are only some of the names for a very soft bread made with a tangzhong (see below). For now, Ono believes he’ll be the only one on the West Coast selling it — both as part of the sandwiches and by the package, including an extra-thick-cut version that’s especially good for making toast. “I’m a dude from the Midwest who grew up on white bread,” he said. For the starter – Tangzhong. Picture-Perfect Japanese Sandwiches Find a Home in SF. This is because Japanese milk bread is made using the “Yudane method”. Measure out remaining ingredients (flour, yeast, milk… Japanese Milk Bread Is Coming for Your Lunch. - final dough. Japanese milk bread is called Hokkaido bread. Although the popularity of Japanese sandos has exploded nationwide thanks to viral sensation Konbi in Los Angeles, local chefs say that’s not why milk bread has found such a strong audience in San Francisco. parolee accused of killing pedestrians faced life sentence in earlier case, but got five years, Coronavirus live updates: 60 now infected at Kaiser San Jose following deadly incident possibly linked to Christmas costume, Airbnb is asking guests for a new requirement before booking stays in California during pandemic, California cases jump to over 70,000 in a day as state braces for post-holiday surge. Slices of milk bread for the grilled cheese sandwich are seen inside the Breadbelly kitchen on Monday, Nov. 4, 2019 in San Francisco, California. And at Sundo, the main point of distinction will be the bread itself: Pasco brand choujuku pan, which, according to Ono, has been Japan’s best-selling white bread for a number of years. bread flour, 203g (I used half KAF bread flour and half KAF AP flour for a balance of chewiness and volume) sugar, 33g. INGREDIENTS. Within just the past year, several spots have opened specializing in Japanese sandwiches that use the bread with crispy pork katsu or creamy egg salad. More Bay Area restaurants are protesting to bring back outdoor dining, Hundreds gather as Cliff House’s sign comes down, marking the official closure of iconic S.F. ‘This week is critical’. Therefore unlike store bought hot dog buns, these Japanese hot dog buns are soft yet a structured bread. Flour – 4 tablespoons; Water – 6 tablespoons; Milk – 6 tablespoons; For the dough. Scaling the ingredients is quite straightforward. 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